help with a electric late model?

[deldanny]

looking to start my new rc goal. i plan on makeing a electric late model for this track. can anyone give me some details or set ups. i have never done any rc dirt racing before. thanx

-danny

[ctsieber]

you have to give some details. What type of car are you going to run?

[deldanny]

just something for fun. like a 1/18 late model. im not looking to spend $600 on a car till im ready an know what im doing. i think losi or something like that makes a 1/18 but dose bumps an jumps even run 1/18?

[ctsieber]

just something for fun. like a 1/18 late model. im not looking to spend $600 on a car till im ready an know what im doing. i think losi or something like that makes a 1/18 but dose bumps an jumps even run 1/18?

they used to. Not sure if they will this year or not.

[deldanny]

that sucks. any info for a backup plan? idk what would be good way to get started.

[rj14]

that sucks. any info for a backup plan? idk what would be good way to get started.


He has vehicles to rent.....that could help you make a decision which direction you might want to go.

[shmeedel]

Chris is going to run spec Slash trucks on the oval this year. It will be a great cheap class to get into. He also has two rentals in the shop for race day to see if you like it or no. Check out his website for the details. http://www.bumpsandjumpsrc.com/

Marc

[DaBearsNo13]

Wish this would have been around years ago when I started. Chris is doing a great job on promoting this hobby/sport.

Later,
Russ

[deldanny]

would a slash truck drive the same as a late model?

[ctsieber]

would a slash truck drive the same as a late model?

nope. If your looking for a late model build a 13.5 late model.

[siggy99x]

This is where a 17.5 or 21.5 class with the McAllister street stock camaro bodies would be helpful. Gives people a chance to race at a slower speed till they can handle the 13.5 LM at which time all they would need is a motor and body.

[terry14]

This is where a 17.5 or 21.5 class with the McAllister street stock camaro bodies would be helpful. Gives people a chance to race at a slower speed till they can handle the 13.5 LM at which time all they would need is a motor and body.

that is the best idea i have heard in a long time:thumbsup:

[shmeedel]

This is where a 17.5 or 21.5 class with the McAllister street stock camaro bodies would be helpful. Gives people a chance to race at a slower speed till they can handle the 13.5 LM at which time all they would need is a motor and body.

Spliting classes again!:thumbsdown:

[Dan D]

Spliting classes again!:thumbsdown:

who wants to split up classes?????? where do the new people start??????? is there a place for newbies??????? is dirt oval growing with new people?????? let the flaming begin.

[siggy99x]

Im not saying split any class but there needs to be a sportsman division someplace for new people to race regular race cars so they can learn how to set up the cars and work up the ranks when i started we had a sportsman division that ran the old mabuchi motors. There is no place for new people or young racers to get laps with a race car You cant give a new person or a youngster who never raced a 13.5 lm and expect them to enjoy themselves when they are getting lapped,breaking parts or crashed because of lack of track time.The 13.5 cars are fast! The 13.5 LM class is getting strong enough that this will not hurt it. We need a place to get new and young people started at a slower pace with an actual race car the Slash class will not teach anyone about setting up a 13.5 lm. I am not against the Slash class I think its great but a 13.5 lm is a whole other animal . The 13.5 lm class is basically the like the open class for the nitro cars. It is the top class right now in electric racing.

[BIG BUBBA]

May I suggest 1/10 Losi spec slider? Large fields at C & S and at CRC,Both in and around the Charlotte area. They are running the DODC LIPO battery and sticking with the stk motors and tires. Great for the newest of newbie and on up.. Check into it.

[siggy99x]

again a car that is obsolete if you want to move to something else.

[siggy99x]

Here is what my thoughts are im sure i will get hammered but oh well 3 electric classes possibly 4 nothing else just these classes are all thats needed
17.5 or 21.5 electric limited latemodel or street stock
13.5 Lm or EDM
Mod sprint
If you want to run 13.5 edm and lm that would be 4 classes

OR
21.5 or 17.5 street stock
13.5 LM
10.5 EDM
Mod sprint

[terry14]

marc
i don't like splitting classes either. in this specific case i don't think it would hurt the class. i don't think too many would move down, but it would give new people a place to start. once again ONLY because we are talking about a huge class do i think it is a good idea. i also think there should be enforced , strict rules that it is only for new people. once you run 13.5 you should not be able to run the lower class again.

[siggy99x]

marc
i don't like splitting classes either. in this specific case i don't think it would hurt the class. i don't think too many would move down, but it would give new people a place to start. once again ONLY because we are talking about a huge class do i think it is a good idea. i also think there should be enforced , strict rules that it is only for new people. once you run 13.5 you should not be able to run the lower class again.


Yes that is correct once you run 13.5 (unless your out of control which would have to be enforced by the track) you cant class hop!

[Dan D]

May I suggest 1/10 Losi spec slider? Large fields at C & S and at CRC,Both in and around the Charlotte area. They are running the DODC LIPO battery and sticking with the stk motors and tires. Great for the newest of newbie and on up.. Check into it.

bumps tried this class and it was dead before it started

[JAC9]

I think there are some good points stated here. But what you need to keep in mind is the cost of getting into it is large! Even if you make a 17.5 or 21.5 class the cost is still the same as 13.5. So with this being said I think the slash class makes perfect sense. Do I wish there were a oval car with this same startup cost as a slash you bet. But I haven't seen anything yet in the price range of one.
Break out the SLASHS and have some fun..

[siggy99x]

Racing is expensvie it was back in the day when we had a sportsman class there are tons of used cars, radios and parts for sale. Custom works and Hyperdrive have cars that are at great prices if you think you need a new car. The Slashs will not help it will make them spend more money nothing on that slash will fit any electric dirt oval race car there not even using the dodc motors or batteries sorry i have seen this before

[JAC9]

Racing is expensvie it was back in the day when we had a sportsman class there are tons of used cars, radios and parts for sale. Custom works and Hyperdrive have cars that are at great prices if you think you need a new car. The Slashs will not help it will make them spend more money nothing on that slash will fit any electric dirt oval race car there not even using the dodc motors or batteries sorry i have seen this before


Yep I seen it before too!! 25 to 35 cars in a class and people having fun with it. Last winter when we started racing them on sundays at bumps it just got better.

[siggy99x]

but a driver like you should not be allowed to run this class if its for new and inexperienced racers and if its not then its not helping the sport /hobby to grow its just another class that will be ruled by experienced racers.

[Dan D]

May I suggest 1/10 Losi spec slider? Large fields at C & S and at CRC,Both in and around the Charlotte area. They are running the DODC LIPO battery and sticking with the stk motors and tires. Great for the newest of newbie and on up.. Check into it.

Racing is expensvie it was back in the day when we had a sportsman class there are tons of used cars, radios and parts for sale. Custom works and Hyperdrive have cars that are at great prices if you think you need a new car. The Slashs will not help it will make them spend more money nothing on that slash will fit any electric dirt oval race car there not even using the dodc motors or batteries sorry i have seen this before

thats what happened to 1/10 and 1/18 losi cars. a passing fad. come and go, cars and classes. most peopls see sprint cars, late models and edms and they relate to those cars. when some one buys an item like a slash and then wants to move up to another class.... then the big costs come. now the slash is worth nothing and people dont want to drop a fortune on regearing a second time so those people are gone as fast as they started.

[JAC9]

but a driver like you should not be allowed to run this class if its for new and inexperienced racers and if its not then its not helping the sport /hobby to grow its just another class that will be ruled by experienced racers.

I do not disagree with you on that at all I only run mine once in a while to get my offroad fix. But I will say this if it wasn't for these trucks I would not race offroad because it is just to expensive to outfit two types of racing. However I will say this I have 2 of these truck ready to run (one for me and one for my daughter) and everytime I went to the track the second truck was raced by someone else who was tring it out so the next time you come to an oval event offer up your spare 1200 dollar car to anybody and see how they like it!

[Dan D]

I do not disagree with you on that at all I only run mine once in a while to get my offroad fix. But I will say this if it wasn't for these trucks I would not race offroad because it is just to expensive to outfit two types of racing. However I will say this I have 2 of these truck ready to run (one for me and one for my daughter) and everytime I went to the track the second truck was raced by someone else who was tring it out so the next time you come to an oval event offer up your spare 1200 dollar car to anybody and see how they like it!

i have handed out my race cars to many new people to try before they made the big purchase.

[siggy99x]

No reason to spend 1200 to race in a sportsman class. Too many are stuck on looking at the cost of new stuff to get into this. You dont need a new car heck you of all people know that you would not be able to sell anything LOL!!! I stated my basic formula i know it works nad it would work again people need to accept new ideas and change just like the DODC rules 13.5 lm is the biggest class this year at the open wheel. are hobby is in need of new racers and young racers in a class that is designed for them to move up the ranks. You have to sit back and look at the big picture. We need to build a sportsman class for the long haul.Would there be a full field first year probably not two years down the road id bet it would be.

[FossilRC]

No reason to spend 1200 to race in a sportsman class. Too many are stuck on looking at the cost of new stuff to get into this. You dont need a new car heck you of all people know that you would not be able to sell anything LOL!!! I stated my basic formula i know it works nad it would work again people need to accept new ideas and change just like the DODC rules 13.5 lm is the biggest class this year at the open wheel. are hobby is in need of new racers and young racers in a class that is designed for them to move up the ranks. You have to sit back and look at the big picture. We need to build a sportsman class for the long haul.Would there be a full field first year probably not two years down the road id bet it would be.

Plus, if a new racer buy's a used car and then decides they don't like it, at least they can sell it and recoup some of their investment. I have to agree, I like my slash, but it will not give the feeling of a (Race Car).

[deldanny]

thats what happened to 1/10 and 1/18 losi cars. a passing fad. come and go, cars and classes. most peopls see sprint cars, late models and edms and they relate to those cars. when some one buys an item like a slash and then wants to move up to another class.... then the big costs come. now the slash is worth nothing and people dont want to drop a fortune on regearing a second time so those people are gone as fast as they started.
i hope they will have the 1/18 late model. i relly would like to get started there. i hear u can make them fly

[kerstetter]

theres really not a class of 1/18 scale at bumps and your right you can make them fly but you will put as much money into that as any 1/10 scale car your best bet and this is my opioion is to buy a used roller here on dirt oval I have seen alot of customworks intimadators go for very cheap on here sometimes even ready to race and the great thing about bumps is they have practice every thursday and friday you dont have to step right into racing it if you buy a car that works it makes it much easier to drive and learn as well i hope they will have the 1/18 late model. i relly would like to get started there. i hear u can make them fly

[Dan D]

i hope they will have the 1/18 late model. i relly would like to get started there. i hear u can make them fly

sorry no 1/18s at bumps this year.

[Corny05]

Yeah, sell it now, give me half, and let me kick you in the stomach to simulate the frustration running electric cars-LOL-Just kidding, but I saw some fast guys running the custom works cars with the cw thunderbird body-if thats legal here. Also Putnam cars seem to always be upfront too. 13.5 seems like a good class, but like the limited nitro class it seems if your off a little your way down because of how tight it is and it can get frustrating, on the other hand the open class seems better because if you get in trouble you have the power to catch back up.:thumbsup:

[jinglesinpa]

i hope they will have the 1/18 late model. i relly would like to get started there. i hear u can make them fly


if your just getting started i think a "flying 1/18" is not the place to start!! start with a slash or a good used dirt oval car or even a truck !trucks are fairly cheap and theres always a class of them there.

[deldanny]

thanx for all ur input guys. im talking to a few people about some cars an so on. hope what i buy ill like. there a lil pricey but whats not in this day. again thanks alot maybe a 1/10 CW might be good

-danny

[old409]

I've been thinking of giving racing a try. I'm retired and have lots of time but limited funds. I was thinking about the Losi 1/10 Slider but everybody I talk to says to go with a Custom Works or something similar. I don't want to spend that kind of money. Been looking at used stuff too and most are asking almost as much for the used as new costs.

I have a Slash but it doesn't look like it would be much fun on an oval and if you run spec class what can you learn about modifications etc. It might be O.K. from a learning driving standpoint but it doesn't appeal to me.

. No 1'18th, Sliders are out, that doesn't leave much for somebody wanting to race oval. I would think a class with 1/10th or 1/18th Sliders would be a good way to bring new people into R.C. oval racing.

[TBRC1]

No reason to spend 1200 to race in a sportsman class. Too many are stuck on looking at the cost of new stuff to get into this. You dont need a new car heck you of all people know that you would not be able to sell anything LOL!!! I stated my basic formula i know it works nad it would work again people need to accept new ideas and change just like the DODC rules 13.5 lm is the biggest class this year at the open wheel. are hobby is in need of new racers and young racers in a class that is designed for them to move up the ranks. You have to sit back and look at the big picture. We need to build a sportsman class for the long haul.Would there be a full field first year probably not two years down the road id bet it would be.


I can't agree with siggy more just look at what I did Saturday with a OLD RC10 based 2.25 transmission terminator. I mean come on the car I'm racing is for lack of better terms a GRAND FATHER to what is out there now. I believe a 21.5 or a 17.5 class would be a good place to start for beginners. The newbie would get a car (used or new) the dodc battery a legal body as well as the other needed stuf and start racing. When the time comes the upgrade is a 13.5 motor and some chassis tuning along with different gearing and once again they're off !!! Heck I think I know 3 or 4 guys who might like running a slower motor.

[shmeedel]

No 1'18th, Sliders are out, that doesn't leave much for somebody wanting to race oval. I would think a class with 1/10th or 1/18th Sliders would be a good way to bring new people into R.C. oval racing.

Give it to Chris for trying. He has tried 1/10 and 1/18 Sliders and 2 or three people showed. Trust me from last year when 2 of us ran for points in 13.5 EDM and I think 2 or 3 people ran for points in 13.5 sprint it is no fun running with one other person every week. Or combining different classes to make full fields. I just don't see 3 or 4 new people busting down the doors every week to get in to this hobby. I would love to see a small block class and a big block class but not at the expence of spliting classes. What do you do if only 1 or 2 show for a class?

[siggy99x]

Give it to Chris for trying. He has tried 1/10 and 1/18 Sliders and 2 or three people showed. Trust me from last year when 2 of us ran for points in 13.5 EDM and I think 2 or 3 people ran for points in 13.5 sprint it is no fun running with one other person every week. Or combining different classes to make full fields. I just don't see 3 or 4 new people busting down the doors every week to get in to this hobby. I would love to see a small block class and a big block class but not at the expence of spliting classes. What do you do if only 1 or 2 show for a class?


I think you will be suprised at how a 21.5 or 17.5 sportsman class would be supported we need a place for kids and new people to get going after seeing a slash on the oval there is no way that class will help bring people to oval racing nor will it teach them set ups or anything they could use in a reg dirt oval car ,dirt oval people that attend big races want to race a car like they watch at there friday or saturday night dirt track. We always had a sportsamn division and always had full car counts in both classes you just have to stick with it and build it up the gimmick classes do not work they been tried and have failed every time.

[shmeedel]

What do you do if only 1 or 2 show for a class?

But as a track owner what do you do if only 1 or 2 show every week?

What I am saying it would be better for the sport to only have 2 or 3 electric classes that draw fields of 9 to 10 cars weekly then 6 classes with 2 or 3 cars to run. Good racing brings people in.

[siggy99x]

You need to go back and read 3 or 4 electric classes nothing else we have how many nitro classes limited sprint and lm did not start with full fields. Bottom line is there needs to be a class for new racers using actual race cars

[rj14]

You guys are starting to argue the chicken or the egg theory. Here are some points to ponder-

Has anyonere here seen a production race kit along the lines of price of a Losi Slider that with a motor change can be competetive w/ the 13.5 class in Central PA?

I'll answer that for you....Nope.

Even if someone was ambitious and tried to put together a kit that was affordable with all of the same adjustment characteristics of the caliber equipment we use in the 13.5 class to make the car reliable and competetive w/ the current crop of 13.5 cars avail you guys would be crying about how it would have been better to just start w/ all the good stuff to begin with and we would be right back where we started.

For example- I have from a reliable source that this type of car is in the works. BUT this all hinges on the feesability of certain component materials working out. Basically there is a car that is being worked on that COULD fit this mold.

HOWEVER once the driver is ready to upgrade the car to start running with the "big dogs" so to speak we are still looking at a $500-$600 car. Initially the first car or starer kit is in the high $200 range minus radio gear. And then the upgrade kit is another $150 dollars or so. Putting it in line with the current crop of "newer" kit companies.

SO you guys tell me....from a new racer stand point. Is it worth going out and spending the following-

$90 new motor (17.5 DODC legal)
$89 esc
$200 radio gear
$275 car
$30 body (LM)
$60 tires

That is still almost $750 (still leaving out batt and charger)

Then in 6 mos to a year

$90 (13.5 DODC)
$150 (pro grade upgrade)

We are still at close to $1000.

Keep in mind this is using machined parts made in America. No cheap overseas injection molded junk!

You are still looking at $600 minimum for a used set-up to get started.

This is still a niche market in the rc industry. Niche markets are not cheap. Believe me I WOULD love to see a dirt oval specific kit that would rival the cost of a redy to run off road kit. But do the nature of this form of racing it isn't in the cards right now. Everyone was pumped with what Losi was doing....but we all agree it was poor execution in a very tough genere. I have said it before...any company that developes a type of car just to boost kit sales w/o a long term investment in the quality of the racing it is trying foster will fail everytime. Without a solid foundation and infrustructure you will see a failed series and spec class to go with it. Shall we name them??? The TSpec (assoc) HPI Challenge Series, TCS (Tamiya)....and the list continues. The RC car industry is alive because of racing and the individual efforts of independant promoters, tracks and companies that foster racing.

I may be wrong....but people who support and foster rc cars are race enthusiasts. We emulate what we enjoy and have a connection to.

All others who are into RC hobbies..well they stand in a field and stare at the sky!

[curtisp]

With your season getting ready to get started...it's probably too late to consider this...but here's an idea that is working VERY WELL for Tea's Raceway (http://www.teashobbyshop.com/) and Brinks Speedway (http://www.brinksspeedway.com).

It's a buggy based Late Model class. The concept behind the class is to provide an affordable class for beginners to start in...racing cars that look like full size dirt late models.

I believe this was the largest class most weeks at Brinks last year...and was actually the largest class at the season opener last weekend at Tea's. The two tracks are about 70 miles apart and run the same classes.

Here are the rules for our Limited Late Model class:

-2WD only cars, and you can not take a 4WD car and take out the front drive shafts.
-Motor: 19T Locked end bell brushed motor or Brushless 13.5 to roar spec.
-Batteries: Maximum of 6 sub-C rechargeable batteries at 1.2 V per cell max. or Lithium batteries 2 cell only (7.4 V max)
-Must be a 2WD off road buggy chassis. (Examples: Associated, Team Losi, Duratrax, Traxxas, HPI ect) No chassis modifications, chassis must be original design by the manufacture of that kit. No aftermarket upgrade chassis allowed such as Putnam, JRC, Custom Works, Hugger or similar, X Factory, Factory Works, Dyno Tech, Hurricane, basically no performance enhancing or purpose built kits/conversion allowed. Battery and motor must be in stock location from original manufacture. Modifications to mount body mounts/post or front bumper is allowed.
-Must run buggy length shocks and be mounted in stock mounting holes in shock tower and arms. No shock limiters will be allowed.
-Must run stock buggy suspension arm mounts and stock buggy arms (if you have to modify the arm mounts or chassis to make mounts work it is not allowed)
-No alum outdrives or drive shafts. Steel only
-Must run a buggy size rim 2.2″ or Custom Works 2″ rubber style rim. Rubber tires only, no cap tires or silicone tires allowed, must have visible tread. No foam tires allowed.
-Allowed tires: Any rear buggy size off road tire or street pattern type rubber tire or Custom Works Street Trac tire part numbers 6213, 6214 or 6215 on rear only. Any front buggy size off road ribbed or street pattern type rubber tire or Custom Works Street Trac tire part number 6204 or 6205 on front only. All Custom Works rear tires must be mounted on Custom Works rims part number 6253 and all front tires must be mounted on part number 6252. Any other combination must be approved with race director before racing. Tire rules are intended to insure that larger tires are on the rear and narrower tires are on the front. No exceptions make it work.
-Use of different rear hub carrier other then original or modification to original rear hub carrier for clearance on rim is allowed.
-Use of wheel spacers is allowed. You must be under the 10″ width rule if using spacers.
-Motor must be mounted in original location.
-Must run a slipper clutch assembly, no slipper eliminators allowed, 1 speed only, 48 pitch spur and pinion gears only, must run a original style gear cover.
-Max width with out body is 10″, that is outside of tires to outside of tires must clear 10″ no exceptions; I don’t care what you have to do but make it less then 10″!!!!!! There will be a box in the tech area that the car must pass through.
-Weight limit: 60oz or 3lbs 12oz
You must run a DODC approved Late Model body and all specs for spoiler will be DODC specs unless other wise side noted or clarified.
Late Model Body rules as of 10/1/09
The only bodies legal for the Late Model class are those that have been approved by DirtOval.com and are listed on the DirtOval.com Approved Late Model body list. Any manufacturer who would like to have a body approved may contact DirtOval.com for approval specifications and instructions. Molded portion of body can be no longer than 22”. Approved body lists will be amended on January 1st and July 1st of each year. Late Model bodies may have openings for cylinder head, fuel tank access, glow plug, engine tuning, and exhaust outlets only. An under body support may be added to brace each rear quarter panel, but must hold it in stock position, can not be flared out. No additional wings, flaps, spoilers, wickers, vents or doohickeys will be allowed. Body may not be altered in any way from it’s stock configuration ie: shortened, lengthened, narrowed, flared fenders etc. Front and rear windows may be removed at trim lines but a flat lexan or similar material deck must be added in cockpit area. Bodies with add on roofs may leave front and rear windows in or out but roofs must be mounted in stock position.


Rear Spoiler: maximum chord is 2.750″ from body deck including any wicker bills.
Rear Spoiler Cap: See Drawing (http://dirtoval.com/rules/latemodelspoilersupport.pdf)
Side note you will be able to run a maximum of 3 dividers. Dividers must have the same profile as the end caps.

This is a very unique class to our area and there are many rules for such a simple class. This is a class that basically should be a 1/10 off road buggy with rubber tires and a late model body. Because this class has so many rules and possible interpretations that the race director may at any time update specs or wordage to protect the class’s integrity with out notice.
The idea behind this is to leave the buggies in stock form...just add a late model body. Leave the lightweight parts...the cut gears...etc...to the faster classes.

The rules are quite long...and quite detailed...but man...the guys racing this class sure do have fun! And that's what it's all about.

[siggy99x]

You guys are starting to argue the chicken or the egg theory. Here are some points to ponder-

Has anyonere here seen a production race kit along the lines of price of a Losi Slider that with a motor change can be competetive w/ the 13.5 class in Central PA?

I'll answer that for you....Nope.

Even if someone was ambitious and tried to put together a kit that was affordable with all of the same adjustment characteristics of the caliber equipment we use in the 13.5 class to make the car reliable and competetive w/ the current crop of 13.5 cars avail you guys would be crying about how it would have been better to just start w/ all the good stuff to begin with and we would be right back where we started.

For example- I have from a reliable source that this type of car is in the works. BUT this all hinges on the feesability of certain component materials working out. Basically there is a car that is being worked on that COULD fit this mold.

HOWEVER once the driver is ready to upgrade the car to start running with the "big dogs" so to speak we are still looking at a $500-$600 car. Initially the first car or starer kit is in the high $200 range minus radio gear. And then the upgrade kit is another $150 dollars or so. Putting it in line with the current crop of "newer" kit companies.

SO you guys tell me....from a new racer stand point. Is it worth going out and spending the following-

$90 new motor (17.5 DODC legal)
$89 esc
$200 radio gear
$275 car
$30 body (LM)
$60 tires

That is still almost $750 (still leaving out batt and charger)

Then in 6 mos to a year

$90 (13.5 DODC)
$150 (pro grade upgrade)

We are still at close to $1000.

Keep in mind this is using machined parts made in America. No cheap overseas injection molded junk!

You are still looking at $600 minimum for a used set-up to get started.

This is still a niche market in the rc industry. Niche markets are not cheap. Believe me I WOULD love to see a dirt oval specific kit that would rival the cost of a redy to run off road kit. But do the nature of this form of racing it isn't in the cards right now. Everyone was pumped with what Losi was doing....but we all agree it was poor execution in a very tough genere. I have said it before...any company that developes a type of car just to boost kit sales w/o a long term investment in the quality of the racing it is trying foster will fail everytime. Without a solid foundation and infrustructure you will see a failed series and spec class to go with it. Shall we name them??? The TSpec (assoc) HPI Challenge Series, TCS (Tamiya)....and the list continues. The RC car industry is alive because of racing and the individual efforts of independant promoters, tracks and companies that foster racing.

I may be wrong....but people who support and foster rc cars are race enthusiasts. We emulate what we enjoy and have a connection to.

All others who are into RC hobbies..well they stand in a field and stare at the sky!

Rj you are correct this is not cheap no matter how you look at it pay me now or pay me later. This is why the sportsman class worked in years past the new guy could buy used stuff and upgrade as he had the money yet still be able to race with people on his or her level while using an actual race car that if they decide they did not want to continue they could resell at a reasonable return price. I agree with you RJ 100% the racing enthusiasts wants to race the style cars they have a connection with.

[DaBearsNo13]

With your season getting ready to get started...it's probably too late to consider this...but here's an idea that is working VERY WELL for Tea's Raceway (http://www.teashobbyshop.com/) and Brinks Speedway (http://www.brinksspeedway.com).

It's a buggy based Late Model class. The concept behind the class is to provide an affordable class for beginners to start in...racing cars that look like full size dirt late models.

I believe this was the largest class most weeks at Brinks last year...and was actually the largest class at the season opener last weekend at Tea's. The two tracks are about 70 miles apart and run the same classes.

Here are the rules for our Limited Late Model class:

The idea behind this is to leave the buggies in stock form...just add a late model body. Leave the lightweight parts...the cut gears...etc...to the faster classes.

The rules are quite long...and quite detailed...but man...the guys racing this class sure do have fun! And that's what it's all about.


Curtis has a very good point with these cars. How many people started in this hobby with Tamiya cars racing against others with similar equip. back in the day, you hear it all the time. I know that my first go at trying to race oval was "stock truck" back at Kranzels, which was a stock RC10T2 with an oval body on it. Back then it was a newbie class for the most part, but it was no where near as expensive as Sprint or EDM. You watched the fast guys, learned from them, & decided when you wanted to invest the money into a faster model of car. I tried it twice, & then went back to stock truck to learn more. So this class, IMHO is a very good idea. You can buy B4's really cheap right now, & the upgrade would not be that expensive...well not as much as a Slash anyway.

Just my :twocents:

Russ

[rj14]

Rj you are correct this is not cheap no matter how you look at it pay me now or pay me later. This is why the sportsman class worked in years past the new guy could buy used stuff and upgrade as he had the money yet still be able to race with people on his or her level while using an actual race car that if they decide they did not want to continue they could resell at a reasonable return price. I agree with you RJ 100% the racing enthusiasts wants to race the style cars they have a connection with.

The success of a sportsman class WILL and always will hinge on the track operator. For some reason I remember people racing in a dwindleing sportsman class a Newville for multiple years with no desire to move up all while being more than able to move up (icould be wrong but for some reason I remember this scenario and it struck me as being odd). I have a feeling in 2 years we will be having this debate again. This runs in cycles.

[shmeedel]

Still no one has addressed my question. Most of us electric guys bring two or three cars with us because we never know who is going to show and run what? What do you tell a new guy? You need a car, batteries, and a 17.5 but you may want to get a 13.5 and maybe a mod motor oh yeah you need a LM body and a EDM body just so you are sure you will have a class to run in. What do you tell them if the are not enough people to run there class? How long do you expect them to stay with the sport? How do you address the issue of too many classes and not enough competition?

Again I am not saying I do not agree with a sportman class. I got into electric racing when all we ran was 27T EDM and I never had a chance of winning. I would have loved to run in a sportsman class but I took my lumps with the fast guys. I would have killed to run sprint car but no one wanted to. On the other side there was 6-10 cars weekly and the competition was great and that kept me going.

Marc

[rj14]

Still no one has addressed my question. Most of us electric guys bring two or three cars with us because we never know who is going to show and run what? What do you tell a new guy? You need a car, batteries, and a 17.5 but you may want to get a 13.5 and maybe a mod motor oh yeah you need a LM body and a EDM body just so you are sure you will have a class to run in. What do you tell them if the are not enough people to run there class? How long do you expect them to stay with the sport? How do you address the issue of too many classes and not enough competition?

Again I am not saying I do not agree with a sportman class. I got into electric racing when all we ran was 27T EDM and I never had a chance of winning. I would have loved to run in a sportsman class but I took my lumps with the fast guys. I would have killed to run sprint car but no one wanted to. On the other side there was 6-10 cars weekly and the competition was great and that kept me going.

Marc


Marc,

The sad thing is there is no good answer for that. When I came back rc racing I ran a gas truck because there were always a ton of them. Then I built a gas EDM. and parked the truck once I realized it was actually like going from a Kia to a Corvette. I never had a rats ass chance in hell of winning or being competetive. It was only then I built a mod sprinter. And due to nobody really running electric at Newville I only ran the car 3 times in the 1st 6 mos I had the car. A couple of winters ago I would have said either build a stock edm or sprinter. We had them each week at Bumps....but we saw what happened there. We went to the LM's and everything else died. And personally I don't even like them!!!! Everyone turned it into a crash fest!

[WYD]

Problem is over the years so many cars came out and technology changed. Now we have 50 classes for 51 racers. A simple fix which will never happen is go back to the old days. You had Stock and Mod 2wd, 4wd mod and now add a begginer run what you brung class.

It will never happen but thats the way it use to be.

[rj14]

Problem is over the years so many cars came out and technology changed. Now we have 50 classes for 51 racers. A simple fix which will never happen is go back to the old days. You had Stock and Mod 2wd, 4wd mod and now add a begginer run what you brung class.

It will never happen but thats the way it use to be.


Brian-

That would be all too easy!!!

[shmeedel]

Problem is over the years so many cars came out and technology changed. Now we have 50 classes for 51 racers.

Now you see what I am saying! There has to be a trade off to make it better for everybody not just add a class for sportsman.

[WYD]

Now you see what I am saying! There has to be a trade off to make it better for everybody not just add a class for sportsman.I understand what your saying.

The other thing I can think of and I don't know if it was mentioned would be to run points racing like we do every season at Bumps but split the classes into 2 groups. I will just pick the easiest with electric one week and nitro the other week. This way you would have roughly 4 classes each weekend to run and maybe get alot more racers into those classes each week vs having 8 classes on one day with 10 or less in each one.

It could work. Not saying it has to be electric and nitro split but group the classes in equal groups. 2 bigger classes each weekend and 2 smaller ones. Not 100% on the split but it is just one of the solutions. Maybe not perfect but could work.

[siggy99x]

Problem is over the years so many cars came out and technology changed. Now we have 50 classes for 51 racers. A simple fix which will never happen is go back to the old days. You had Stock and Mod 2wd, 4wd mod and now add a begginer run what you brung class.

It will never happen but thats the way it use to be.


Brian you are so right!! Sorry for trying to help get new people involved. It worked and would work again. We ran 3 classes sprint which was open motor, stock 27 turn and sprotsman Mabuchi 540 motor full fields everyweek!

[siggy99x]

Now you see what I am saying! There has to be a trade off to make it better for everybody not just add a class for sportsman.


But the formula is there no need for 51 classes Lm is the biggest class hands down so we dont need to mess with it. Then mod sprint which seems to be gaining ground here. there is 2 classes 13.5 lm and mod sprint. 3rd class is your sportsman class 21.5 or 17.5 dodc latemodel 3 total classes and like i said before there is the edm class which does not seem to get much support in PA anymore probably because there arent many real tracks that run edms anymore but if you wanted a 4th class then make it a 10.5 edm thats 4 total electric classes all a bit different no reason for anymore.

The TOUR pan car guys have a good thing with there classes 17.5 truck, 13.5 cot ,10.5 nationwide body with the 17.5 truck as the sportsman class

[signman501]

If you ran electrics one week and nitro the next you might see a bigger field as you wouldn't have so many classes to work with. You might be able to have a sportsman class without so many classes. Plus it would take a lot of cost away from people and may draw more cars. Worst that happens is it doesn't work and you go back to the normal schedule.

[signman501]

Siggy don't forget the 7.5 mod class for the pan cars. Unfortunately I have no place to race one of those unless I wanna drive 3+ hrs one way.

[siggy99x]

yes glenn your correct 4 classes something for every level of racer

[shmeedel]

But the formula is there no need for 51 classes Lm is the biggest class hands down so we dont need to mess with it. Then mod sprint which seems to be gaining ground here. there is 2 classes 13.5 lm and mod sprint. 3rd class is your sportsman class 21.5 or 17.5 dodc latemodel 3 total classes and like i said before there is the edm class which does not seem to get much support in PA anymore probably because there arent many real tracks that run edms anymore but if you wanted a 4th class then make it a 10.5 edm thats 4 total electric classes all a bit different no reason for anymore.

The TOUR pan car guys have a good thing with there classes 17.5 truck, 13.5 cot ,10.5 nationwide body with the 17.5 truck as the sportsman class

You said it perfect. If we only ran 13.5 LM and Mod sprint like the Tour, I again like all of my other post said I could see running a sportsman class BUT people can not agree to just run 13.5 LM and 6.5 Mod Sprint. Sat. there was 13.5 sprints and EDMs. Now with that said wait until after the OW and tell me again how many show to run all of these class on the same day. Thanks to all for your time I am going to borrow one of Nick's lines and "I am going to go back to being good!"

[irocz69]

Look guys, I don't think there is a simple solution to this problem. No matter how much we all think there should be an entry/sportsman class. I feel the numberous classes & the technology of the sport have made it harder to run such a class nowadays. I do agree there should be a starting class for people who want to get involved in the hobby & even for some of those racers that cant run w/the big dogs presently, but are trying because they have no other place to start.

I just read every post on this thread & there are alot of good ideas & opinions, I think the only one that can really try & start a beginner or sportsman class is the track owner. We all can sit here & debate this till were blue in the face, but untill there is a class put into place, like Chris is trying to do w/the Slash class, this problem will never go away.

Back in the day when Nick & I started there were 2 classes, which were Sportsman & Pro. We both started w/buggy type chassis w/EDM bodies on them. Now, like everyone has been saying, there are quite a few class & that makes it harder to add a class to the weekly racing, but an additional 12 min to a race day isn't really gonna hurt anyone.

Now w/all that being said, I think the only problem is to come up w/a car/truck type class for the new comers. Trying to do away w/current classes or trying to split them isn't the answer, because w/out those classes you could also lose some good racers that support your local hobby shop week in & week out.

However, I do agree w/Lauden & RJ & some others that no matter what the beginner class may be, it will still cost alot of money, weather it be when they start or when they want to upgrade. Sorry, w/the technology of the sport moving as fast as it is there is no way around the dollar issue !

Personally, I think anyone coming into the hobby, can buy used equipment for a reasonable price & get there feet wet. It just depends on how deep they want to go, BUT THEY DO NEED A STARTING POINT ! I like Laudens idea of a 17.5 OR SLOWER class w/LM bodies. They can be beat up w/minimal breakage compared to a Sprint or EDM.

My 2:twocents: worth !

GO FAST TURN LEFT ! Keith S.

[deldanny]

y dose it look like the "big dogs" dont wanna race with newcomers. is it cus they think someone like me would crash them? sry if anyone takes this the wrong way. just seems like people want a new class for new racers so the "big dogs" can race and now worry about us..

[rj14]

y dose it look like the "big dogs" dont wanna race with newcomers. is it cus they think someone like me would crash them? sry if anyone takes this the wrong way. just seems like people want a new class for new racers so the "big dogs" can race and now worry about us..

That is not the case at all. Sucess comes from comfort. It can be stressful and less fun at times when you are constantly under pressure or being lapped etc.. We want newcomers to be comfortable and have fun. This will be more fun for you, thus hopefully ensuring your longevity in this hobby.

Contrary to what you may think, we really want you to come out and have fun and not feel pressured to be competetive with seasoned racers and not feel as though you are out of place.

This type of "sportsman class" setup to racing actually benifits you as a new racer. We can take the time to watch you run and help you out on the track. This is very hard to do when we are racing against you on the track at the same time. Plus it allows us to make on track adjustments for you to make the car better....it's a win-win situation.

[deldanny]

true. be nice if there was something like a braket class for LM sprint anything. an better way to get goin with out spending alot of money... pont is i hate lipos an brushless motors are so much money. i only have two mamba systems and 13.5 systems are like $222. be more fun to have like brushed motors an round cell batterys. like when i ran the rc nascar oval stuff i had a 27T on a 4 cell.
just an idea...

[Dan D]

That is not the case at all. Sucess comes from comfort. It can be stressful and less fun at times when you are constantly under pressure or being lapped etc.. We want newcomers to be comfortable and have fun. This will be more fun for you, thus hopefully ensuring your longevity in this hobby.

Contrary to what you may think, we really want you to come out and have fun and not feel pressured to be competetive with seasoned racers and not feel as though you are out of place.

This type of "sportsman class" setup to racing actually benifits you as a new racer. We can take the time to watch you run and help you out on the track. This is very hard to do when we are racing against you on the track at the same time. Plus it allows us to make on track adjustments for you to make the car better....it's a win-win situation.

this is the best post yet.........way to go RJ

[deldanny]

i might talk to some people i know. maybe borrow a car to go easy with an learn if this is what i want to do or not. hate to pay $550 then not like it an the slash has nothing to do with mod sprint or LM

[siggy99x]

That is not the case at all. Sucess comes from comfort. It can be stressful and less fun at times when you are constantly under pressure or being lapped etc.. We want newcomers to be comfortable and have fun. This will be more fun for you, thus hopefully ensuring your longevity in this hobby.

Contrary to what you may think, we really want you to come out and have fun and not feel pressured to be competetive with seasoned racers and not feel as though you are out of place.

This type of "sportsman class" setup to racing actually benifits you as a new racer. We can take the time to watch you run and help you out on the track. This is very hard to do when we are racing against you on the track at the same time. Plus it allows us to make on track adjustments for you to make the car better....it's a win-win situation.


Great post RJ!!

[DUBES]

y dose it look like the "big dogs" dont wanna race with newcomers. is it cus they think someone like me would crash them? sry if anyone takes this the wrong way. just seems like people want a new class for new racers so the "big dogs" can race and now worry about us..

I'm gonna answser this as a guy who has been right where we are talking about, and I still find myself there at times even after some time at the hobby. Trust me when I say it is no fun at all to be under this pressure from the lead cars. Nothing will make you feel worse than to have one get into you and you end their day- not yours. Trust me when I say 99.99% of the time, if you tangle with them, it wasn't their fault. You are running with talented drivers with 15, 20 or more years at the wheel.

That being said- don't shy away from coming out to play. these same guys are the ones who will teach you all you need to know. Not once has one of them turned away from helping me. I had 2 pro drivers help me on Saturday- one change and the car i strruggled with all day was instantly 100% better. I then proceeded to wreck on my own and break myself- as good as these guys are they can't hold the wheel for you- even when yelling at me to take it easy with the much faster car- I still squeezed the trigger till she bleed! As a wise man said- you can't fix stupid!

I believe there should be a "starter class" also. What type, how to do it?- There are smarter people than me to figure this out. But it is a great idea, even better, any new guy that buys and enters that class should be introduced to one of these pros immediately. Hopefuly that person will act as a mentor and tutor. Now that would make a new guy excited to get in and know he will have a person to go to for help.

[signman501]

true. be nice if there was something like a braket class for LM sprint anything. an better way to get goin with out spending alot of money... pont is i hate lipos an brushless motors are so much money. i only have two mamba systems and 13.5 systems are like $222. be more fun to have like brushed motors an round cell batterys. like when i ran the rc nascar oval stuff i had a 27T on a 4 cell.
just an idea...

If you look at the money side you will find the lipo/brushless will save you tons. A brushless motor require no maintenance. I have two 13.5 that I have run very hard for a year and have done nothing to. Same thing with the lipo batteries. I have one 5200 that is two years old, charge it for each race and run it, no fiddling with it during the week. Round cells are dead.

[DaBearsNo13]

this is the best post yet.........way to go RJ

Ditto...you are smarter than the average bear RJ! :thumbsup:

Did I really just post that?

[ctsieber]

There are always people around to help. 90% of the people you meet in this hobby will drop everything and help you out. Don't be afraid to ask questions, or ask for help.

I'm gonna answser this as a guy who has been right where we are talking about, and I still find myself there at times even after some time at the hobby. Trust me when I say it is no fun at all to be under this pressure from the lead cars. Nothing will make you feel worse than to have one get into you and you end their day- not yours. Trust me when I say 99.99% of the time, if you tangle with them, it wasn't their fault. You are running with talented drivers with 15, 20 or more years at the wheel.

That being said- don't shy away from coming out to play. these same guys are the ones who will teach you all you need to know. Not once has one of them turned away from helping me. I had 2 pro drivers help me on Saturday- one change and the car i strruggled with all day was instantly 100% better. I then proceeded to wreck on my own and break myself- as good as these guys are they can't hold the wheel for you- even when yelling at me to take it easy with the much faster car- I still squeezed the trigger till she bleed! As a wise man said- you can't fix stupid!

I believe there should be a "starter class" also. What type, how to do it?- There are smarter people than me to figure this out. But it is a great idea, even better, any new guy that buys and enters that class should be introduced to one of these pros immediately. Hopefuly that person will act as a mentor and tutor. Now that would make a new guy excited to get in and know he will have a person to go to for help.

[ctsieber]

Ditto...you are smarter than the average bear RJ! :thumbsup:

Did I really just post that?

I was thinking the same thing ;)

[deldanny]

id still say a braket would be fun..

[siggy99x]

id still say a braket would be fun..

In dirt racing a bracket type class is tough due to the track changing. the track can get super fast in a hurry.

[siggy99x]

I have no problem helping anyone old or new to the hobby.

[mikeschellracing]

i think gas truck is still the best starter/rookie class. you can find a ton of gt's on here for dirt cheap. and almost anyone could help you with setup, or engine tuning. the gas trucks also are slower than any other class and have twice as much tire on the ground. the other thing is these are great to play in the backyard when your not at the track. not to many people get to run there 13.5 lm, or any other dirt oval car at home to sharpen there new found driving skill's. my 6 year old is currently learning to drive my gas truck and loves it.:twocents:

[deldanny]

only gas truck i have is a t-maxx... lol

[deldanny]

ok i have bin sick for a while so havent bin on hear but i did see some electric sprint rollers. what motor an set up would be best for a sprint class?

[screamingeagle]

ok i have bin sick for a while so havent bin on hear but i did see some electric sprint rollers. what motor an set up would be best for a sprint class?
You said you never ran dirt before so what have you been racing? just to get an idea to help out

[deldanny]

my big thing is rc drag racing. i do that every other week. have also race alot of nascar style oval. and a lil off road.
can i run a mamba max on a 2s 3200 pack in late model? or is it just like a 13.5 spec?
also got a 5700 sidewinder

[deldanny]

the slash class runs oval right? not like the offroad in the center of the track.

[signman501]

my big thing is rc drag racing. i do that every other week. have also race alot of nascar style oval. and a lil off road.
can i run a mamba max on a 2s 3200 pack in late model? or is it just like a 13.5 spec?
also got a 5700 sidewinder

13.5 LM is a spec class using the DODC 13.5 spec motor/3200 spec battery. Any esc is allowed. Don't have a mod LM class at this time.

[deldanny]

anyone know if the slash trucks are running oval?

[shmeedel]

anyone know if the slash trucks are running oval?

So far this year no one has shown up to run slashes on the oval. There was alot of talk but no action.

[deldanny]

could i show up to try to make some laps? or is there no time.