MDM - Tips/Tricks/Setups

[sps3172]

The only thing really needed to turn your offroad buggy into a MDM legal dirt oval car is some body work. The rules specify that you must use the at least the Mcallister Syracuse EDM center section. You can buy the rest of the body work from them or make your own. However the most popular choice seems to be 'Mouse' bodywork available through 'low81ryder' here on the DODC forums. You can reach him at either 618-259-5658 or 618-779-5208.

As a sidebar, the track has a maxmod tire machine with 'dirt oval' adaptors. Although I haven't tried it yet, I think this will make grinding the spikes off of buggy rear tires a quick and easy job.

When Smac makes 'slicks' for his off road car, he told me that he prefers starting with a Losi Red Taper pin. There's no assurance that this will end up being the best tire on the hard packed oval, but it does seem to work on that sort of dirt for offroad and would probably make a good starting point. If anything, you might want to use a slightly firmer foam for the higher side loads expected on the oval. I'll have to post an update when I can get info on what the popular front tires are....unless someone who's racing offroad wants to chime in...

- SS

[smac]

I do use Losi red taper slicks on the off road, but make sure that you trim the bead of the Losi tires slightly so that they will fit down into the Associated style wheels better.

J Concepts green Double Dee's will also work very well. I am told that the JC green compound is a bit softer and may provide better traction with the correct inserts in them. I am building a set of green JC slicks now with Trinity ULTRA FIRM Bomb One inserts. I picked up the inserts at Checkered Flag Hobbies.

They are extremely firm and difficult to fit over the wheels. I found that it is easier to fit them on the wheels first, but be carefull not to rip them when you are forcing them on. Work with the inserts until they are perfectly centered and uniform around the wheel before stretching the tire around them.

I am not trimming the edges of the inserts so that the sidewall will be as sturdy as possible.

[paco62]

The also sell the Trinity Ultra Firm at Mark Twain.

[sps3172]

The also sell the Trinity Ultra Firm at Mark Twain.

In case anyone missed it in the other threads, the Trinity Ultra Firm's do NOT seem to be the ticket.

[MiniT21]

The tire setup i've been using is pink taper pin slicks with j concepts green foams out back, and red 2wd taper pin slicks, with the stock losi foams up front. Seems to work good. Main thing about setup i've seen on these cars is they need to be ultra stiff to get them to turn well. Also need to take a lot of the droop out of the car, My front arms barely fall below level as well as the back. Thick oil to keep the car from rolling over makes a big difference as well. Also a thing i've noticed is a lot of people are still mounting the electronics likey they would for offroad, move all that stuff to the left hand side and as far back as you can.

[ThisDougsForU]

I picked up the FT B4 today from Mike, and I've already got my "Mouse" body painted up....but boy am I confused on the mounting. I think I'll just bring it down on Weds and get some help from you guys. Do I need to pick up different body posts or anything ?

I scored a Novak 7.5 on Ebay and factory refurb Novak GTB (as per Mike & Rob's suggestion, thanks) from the Novak site, so this car is going to be ready to race a week from this Weds most likely....if I could figure out the body!:D

[ThisDougsForU]

What is the trick with the tubing in the shocks that guys are using ? My car sits way too high and keeps wheely-ing and rolling over.

[MiniT21]

if you put about an 1/8" piece of fuel tubing in the rear shocks it will get rid of some of the rear droop (put it under the shock piston on the shock shaft) Also for ride height i would set at bones level out back and arms level in the front. I run mine a few mm lower than that all the way around. About 5 more turns out of each shock from arms level/bones level.

[ThisDougsForU]

Thanks Matt. I just got done completely rebuilding the mdm's shocks. I used a 1/4 inch of tubing in the rears since mine was riding especially high up. The dogbones are level and my car is MUCH lower than it was. I also put heavier 50 weight oil all around. The car is sitting about a half inch lower than it was, and with the heavy oil there is hardly any roll. I just need to get some lead for ballast.

I sold a guitar I had been trying to sell forever yesterday, so I finally ordered a LiPo charger and a pro-match 5000 pack!

My car is going to be drastically different with all the changes in suspension/power on weds.

[smac]

I believe that you also need some stiffer springs. I used some old Shumacher touring car springs that are around 10-12 pounds on Lindell's car when I drove it. They are short so you have to add clip on shock spacers to take up space on the shock bodies.
I also installed a sway bar on the back. Associated makes a B4/T4 kit that I saw at Mark Twain and I would bet that Checkered Flag has. I used a thicker bar than what comes in the kit but the stiff one in the kit would, at least, help.

[sps3172]

Thanks Matt. I just got done completely rebuilding the mdm's shocks. I used a 1/4 inch of tubing in the rears since mine was riding especially high up. The dogbones are level and my car is MUCH lower than it was. I also put heavier 50 weight oil all around. The car is sitting about a half inch lower than it was, and with the heavy oil there is hardly any roll. I just need to get some lead for ballast.

I sold a guitar I had been trying to sell forever yesterday, so I finally ordered a LiPo charger and a pro-match 5000 pack!

My car is going to be drastically different with all the changes in suspension/power on weds.

Doug,

I get 'nervous' any time I hear someone talking 'limiting droop' and 'ride height' in the same breath. Just to clear this up, the available downtravel should NEVER determine the ride height of the car. The car should always sit 'in the springs' some ammount and never topped out againt whatever limits the down travel. Typically, you set the ride height first, then based on how much chassis uptravel (or suspension downtravel) you want, adjustments are made (spacers inside shocks under piston, screwing shock ends on or off, etc.). Clear as mud?

- SS

P.S. Just picked up a Taylor Solid Body......I think I found my new everyday beater.

[ed gaines]

I would think you would worry where the piston sets in the shock more then where the spring is at.