Adjustable Toe A-arms for CW Cars

[Dragula]

I have an intimidator pro-comp DD, and I am looking at you adjustable toe rear a-arms. Are they the same length as stock arms? Do they need need different axle carriers? Current ones are not like the GBX cars. And do they use the same hinge pins?

[MRDmotorsports]

they are identical in lenght. uses the same inner hinge in but a shorter outer, you wont have to shim like on the b3 arms. no need for a different axle carrier either, and when i had them for the direct drive it was the same way, no need for change...

[Dragula]

Diameter the same on the hinge pins too? I have never seen a set of these, but then again not many tracks let me run my DD car.

[smitty]

If you have a DD car you will need part number 2506, and yes you'll need new rear hub carriers(osi xxx-s), and new rear outer pins(3/32).

Hope this helps.

Chad

[Dragula]

I rec'd them yestarday. They mounted directly on the car to the stock uprights, and I used a set of machined delrin JRC axle carriers because the camber links attach at the front or rear an not the top like most do. On a DD car the camber links need to be front mounted. There's no other way to do it.

Next I drilled out the inner most a-arm axle carrier pin hole to use the standard CW pins. There are two holes to choose from for the width, and I used the inner most ones because they make the car slightly wider than stock, where as the outers would have made it a lot wider, and the car works pretty good already. A note of caution here, once you choose to do this, there is not enough material to also drill out the outer axle carrier holes, so do it right the first time.

After I drilled out the inner a-arm axle carrier pin holes, I had to dremel the JRC axle carriers to allow them to pivot correctly. Not an issue because they have lots of beef to them, but the nice strong radius in the Dynotech a-arms needs to be tranfered to the axle carriers which were a solid block, and had no clearance for the radius'.

After that, I ran into a problem. It seems my kyosho dog bones, used when you convert a DD car to GB, will no longer work with the difference in length and new axle carriers. I should be rectifing that as soon as I get my hands on a set of B2/B3 CVD's to try out.

I will post pics when complete. If this works as I hope, it will be one of the coolest mods I have done to these cars. It gives the car two more adjustments than it had previously. Rear toe, and pivot point for the camber link. The main one is the toe.

[Dragula]

As promised, pics.... I have run it around the driveway, but not on the track yet. I ended up with B3 CVD's, and needed some spacers. I learned after I put the CVD's in, the width WAS narrower with the inner holes drilled than when I compared them side by side, and I wanted at least the same width, so I installed some spacers that make it tad wider than originally. I will order another set and drill the outer holes, but I am worried the CVD's will be a touch too short at full extension of the A-arm in the lowest possible position. Now, my car is not anywhere near stock, and there are a few other mods you can see in the pics, but with the new a-arms I was after the toe adjustments because DD cars have none. I ended up with three new adjustments thanks to the good design. 1-there are two lower shock pin holes allowing a quick way to pick ride height. On a DD car there was originally none, and the conversion to TC3 shocks only allows one, but drilling a few extra holes in the new towers CW offers is possible, but only one or two. I choose the inner most one which actually put the car higher up in the air whan combined with the JRC axle carriers and the 8lb springs I was running. This does two things. Lets me run a lighter spring, 6lb progressive, and gives the rear suspension more droop in the rear for entering the corners harder. When sitting with all its weight on the lighter springs, they are compressed more, and the car sits very level. This allows the rear to stay in touch with the ground better if it doesn't bottom out. 2-The JRC carriers allow 6 different pivot points to select how the tire patch reacts. For DO, I choose to put it in the highest hole directly over the axles lower pivot point to keep as much of the tire patch in contact as possible. And third, toe adjustments.

[Dragula]

Update:

I have run the car with the new adjustable a-arms now for a couple of weeks. They work very very well, and are a must have for outdoor oval on the older DD cars. It takes the car from very loose to drivable with a 13.5, even if the track is a really loose.

I had made a couple of other chassis updates when I installed these, and it took a little time to get the car back where I had it, but its back to where it used to be, and I love how easy these arms make it to change the toe...

[nutz4rcyktw]

I have two Intimidators that have vertical ball studs in the outer hubs and the captured ball links are mounted on the front side of the rear tower. All I did was space the ball end out with spacer and longer bolt. This gives a slight angle from the tower to the hub and it works fine. Full travel and no restriction. I have the same arm as you but mine are all aluminum.

[latemodel13]

Thanks Chad for the great service and product. The xxxs carriers worked out great.