Delta Set-up

[merlynz1]

Thought I would start a thread for Delta Set-ups to see what drivers are doing for a set-up.
I have raced mine for a few races and am having a hard time gettting a set-up under it.

Where I am having problems is pushing through the corners. I run pink foams all the way around, Associated blues up front, integy oranges in the back, 30 wt oil in all the shocks (TC3 with VCS2 upgrade), 1.5 degree of toe in the back, anti squat in middle position, CW wheel spacer on right rear. I can free it up a little by taking out some toe but then have no forward bite at all. Going through the corners it has to coast no power at all if I try and have any throttle it pushes up the track like a plow. It was worse and I have been stiffening up the back but still pushes bad.
Any tips or cures????

Also has any body had problems with the front arm mounts?? destroyed one this week end, mine are the delrin ones, was wondering if the aluiminum are any better? Weight is not an issue I only make weight by a half an ounce anyway.

Thanks
Chad

[Doug Carter]

As I'm looking through the geometry for this car while I tear it down and dye the parts, I'm seeing that the design looks to be very suited for a LOT of rear traction and bite. I can see why you are pushing on a high bite surface. There is a LOT of mass concentrated over the rear wheels.

I haven't run mine yet, but I would wonder where your rear arms are mounted on the inner hinge pin (upper or lower?) and where is your camber link location on the rear? Just by an educated eye, I'm guessing the rear roll centers might be too high in the rear for your particular track.

Make sure the inner arm mount is in the bottom hole option and maybe remove with no spacers under the ball on the outer hum camber link. I would try also a more parallel link to arm ratio using a shorter inner stud post. The CW horizontal ball link stud from the rear of a GBX is a bit shorter than the stock Dynotech part (about .100"), and that may allow more adjustment of the inner link height. I'm already looking for shorter stud options for that mounting setup.


For me, a push in requires more front bite, and a push off needs less rear bite. I might also experiment with battery location front to back, too. The car may just need a heaping helping of front weight to take care of everything and still have rear bite.




Honestly, I'm really looking forward to starting to work with this car on the track. There are so many different ideas on it, I'm anxious to see how the adjustments work in a practical application.

[Ben Giles]

Take the toe in out of the left rear only and work from there

Ben Giles

Qusac10@aol.com

[merlynz1]

As I'm looking through the geometry for this car while I tear it down and dye the parts, I'm seeing that the design looks to be very suited for a LOT of rear traction and bite. I can see why you are pushing on a high bite surface. There is a LOT of mass concentrated over the rear wheels.

I haven't run mine yet, but I would wonder where your rear arms are mounted on the inner hinge pin (upper or lower?) and where is your camber link location on the rear? Just by an educated eye, I'm guessing the rear roll centers might be too high in the rear for your particular track.

Make sure the inner arm mount is in the bottom hole option and maybe remove with no spacers under the ball on the outer hum camber link. I would try also a more parallel link to arm ratio using a shorter inner stud post. The CW horizontal ball link stud from the rear of a GBX is a bit shorter than the stock Dynotech part (about .100"), and that may allow more adjustment of the inner link height. I'm already looking for shorter stud options for that mounting setup.


For me, a push in requires more front bite, and a push off needs less rear bite. I might also experiment with battery location front to back, too. The car may just need a heaping helping of front weight to take care of everything and still have rear bite.




Honestly, I'm really looking forward to starting to work with this car on the track. There are so many different ideas on it, I'm anxious to see how the adjustments work in a practical application.

Doug,
The rear inner hinge pins are in the lower hole, and the inner camber links are in the hole that is the furthest back. I already took out the spacers on the hub carriers but I like the idea of using the shorter CW camber links on the back. Will give it a try.


Ben Giles,
I have never tried to stager the toe will give that a try also.

Thanks for the feedback guys....keep it coming.
Chad

[smitty]

Chad,

This is what I'd do for a setup change for your push.

Take some toe out of the right rear, go to 3/4 degree if your at 1.5.(will help on entry and exit)

Make sure that you are in the lower roll center hole in the rear.

Increase the rear weight oil wt. more than you're at currently.(kill some traction)

Shorten up the right front camber link. (will make it more aggressive in the center)

Try some harder rear tires.

You car should have come with the front end at 20 degrees kick up, turn the front uprights upside down and use the other set of holes, this will put the kick up at 15 degrees.

Hope this helps, making a car turn is always easier than trying to find traction.

Chad

[merlynz1]

Chad,


Hope this helps, making a car turn is always easier than trying to find traction.

Chad


I hear ya Chad, I thought it was cool when I put the car on the track for the first time I was not doing doughnuts in every corner...lol am having fun with the car but am somewhat a duck out of water being the only one at my local track...(for the time being).

Chad

[Doug Carter]

You car should have come with the front end at 20 degrees kick up, turn the front uprights upside down and use the other set of holes, this will put the kick up at 15 degrees.


Hey, that's pretty whizzy! That should be in the instruction manual! :D :P


I have the front caster roughly measured at 12-15°. What blocks are stock on the car?

[hms32]

I am running my car:


RF 60 wt oil, gold Assc spring, Short camber link fron back row middle hole to ball stud on castor block. 15 degrees of kick-up, and whatever castor blocks that came on the car

LF 60 wt oil, blue Assc spring, camber link from back row middle to kingpin. !5 degrees of kick-up and castor block that came on the car.

RR 40 wt oil, blue Assc spring, camber link outside hole on hub carrier to inner most hole on inside and as low as they came on the car, 2.25 degrees of toe, lower hole for the rear arm mount top hole for antisquat, shocks are in the lower inside hole.

LR same as RR but no toe.

I am running a 5.5 novak with 5 cell 4600s batt all the way fwd and to the left side.

One track I am running pinks all the way around, I did try a purple Rf and it seamed to work better. the other track I have been running silver rears, purple RF, and pink LF And it worked real good there.

I have raced my car almost a full season now and the car is working good. If I have had any issues it has been loose or turning way to much.

[curtisp]

Chad C.,

Have you tried a front wing? I've never had one on any of my sprints, but I know others do run them. And the Dynotech sprint has holes in the cage for mounting a front wing. Just a thought.

[smitty]

FYI Delta owners,

If you look at the angle of the front shock tower you can tell if your car is set up with 15 or 20 degrees of kick up.

If the front shock tower is leaning towards the front of the car the front end is set up with 15 degrees(Custom Works) of kick up.

If the front shock tower leaning to the back of the car you have 20 degrees(Terminator) of kick up set up in the car.

NOTE: If you have 20 degrees of kick up in the car, make sure to add 5 degrees to all the caster blocks that you put on the car ie, a package of 20 degree caster blocks yeilds you 25 degrees of caster or 15 degrees backwards.

If you run the 15 degree set up, whatever the package says is what you get.

Standard caster blocks that should be on your Delta is 20 degrees.

Thanks for your time.

Chad