Rear Toe

[Shooter]

How much rear toe for stock and mod edm?

Which wheel can I put lead in to help the car turn?

[thegambler]

the track has a lot to do with it, but I run 0 in my stock and 1 in my mod. If you add more to the left rear it will help the car turn, but in some cases you may get loose coming off.

[Doug Carter]

I would avoid adding lead weights to any spinning object, like a wheel (rotating mass) unless you are trying to balance it. Besides taking it out of balance by adding chunks of weight, you're creating odd gyroscopic effects for no reason that will put stress on bearings, axles and everything else for no reason.


There are plenty of other ways to make a car turn better, than to add actual lead weight to a corner. That's really just a band-aid, at best, and not a very good one.

[tailslide]

I think by "lead" he mean 't putting toe in one side only to steer the rear end, or have one wheel "leading" the other.

[Doug Carter]

LOL, good point... lead and lead are two VERY different things for wheels. :o

[glgraphix]

LOL, good point... lead and lead are two VERY different things for wheels. :o
Doug, your too funny. LOL

[old_fart_racing]

I think by "lead" he mean 't putting toe in one side only to steer the rear end, or have one wheel "leading" the other.

If he ment one wheel "leading" the other to help the car turn, then he would lead with the right rear.

To start out depending on track size I would shim your LR wheelbase long and shim your RR wheelbase centered.

I wouldnt go more than two shims or .064 either way.

Its all pretty much trial and error till you get it set to the track your running at.

[Brad Ferks]

both items have come up now. lead (wheelbase being different l/r) or rear steer (More rear toe on one side or the other to try to get the car to track differently)?

[Arnie Fie]

Two whole different topics going on here...

Toe-in: On the CustomWorks cars when you change the toe degree angle, the tire does not move forward or backward in any manner. The point of pivot for the toe angle change was drawn directly from the center of the tire. You may measure the axle from some other fixed point on the chassis and notice the axle does move, but only from the point of pivot I described.

Leading Tires, Staggered Wheelbases, etc...
Generally Longer right side wheelbase vs the left will keep the car tight. This used to be a trick at the old Kranzel's track just by shimming the play naturally in the susp pieces. At Kranzels you were always turning, however it was banked and like any banked track you need to keep "forward-driving" out of the corner, out of the banking, up the hill, without getting loose or you never will gain momentum to be fast.

For a flat track...keeping the rear end square, leading the LF tire infront of the RF will make the car turn in harder but once you hit the corner's apex the car will drive tight-off. Good for today's pan cars, nitro latemodel, and in some case sprint. Keeping the front end square will allow you to help keep your car low of the corner, once you have entered the corner correctly and not missed the groove. Generally you can run some LF lead (or "leed" for Doug) and counter the tight off with a RR spring or collar adjustment.

As for the rear end...you can try this to some degree, really changes the car "on-power"
Leading the RR vs the LR: Car is bit freeier into corner, wants to pull left on-power.
Trailing the RR behind the LR: Entry is more stable, car will want to "square up" straight quickly on power.

A "change" to you car for these topics is not as much as 1/8 inch, more along the lines of .050 or less than a 1/16". Generally when I build a CW front end, I shim all the play in the RF so the spindle is as far rearward as possible and the LF so it is as far forward and start there. That will give you just a bit of LF lead and you can shave down the LF castor block and and shims to adjust even more from there.