GSX 4 of 4: longer shocks?

[Allan Webster]

So, I've read that for loose/bumpy tracks, the hot ticket is to increase shock lengths. So, again, bought stuff, 71 shafts and 89 bodies. How does the longer travel change the basic setup from the stock stuff? Do I use the same springs and oil, just set the suspension a bit higher? I would guess everything stays the same, you just end up with more travel. Maybe a bit more preload.

Sorry I made 4 individual posts, just figured it would be easier to figure out what questions were being addressed.

Thanks again for all your help.

al

[DKUBISTARACING]

You will get more travel. If you use the same spring you will still have the same rate, preload would not change by changing the shafts and bodies unless you wanted to put more crank into them. If your car is running pretty good now, I wouldnt change springs or oil. Just change the shafts and bodies. Better off to do one at a time.

[K Stevens]

The kit TC3 shocks should be OK for a smooth high bite track, but for the typical loose/rough track a longer rear shock is advisable. The front shocks haven't seemed to be too much of a problem, so I wouldn't worry about them. The problem is that it isn't as simple as merely changing the shock or using a longer shock shaft. The rear shock tower only has provisions for using the standard length TC3 shock. using a longer shock with the stock tower will cause excessive downtravel. I have hand built my own rear shock tower, and I am working with a local manufacturer to develop an optional shock tower. Hopefully those shock towers will be available soon. Also, Custom Works is also supposed to be offering a "loose track" conversion for the car, but I haven't seen any news on when it will be available.

[MauriceG]

When our track was a little bumpy, I installed some old new stock associated medium length shocks. Then, on the front I dremeled the chassis where the lower control arm would hit (rear of the lower frt arm). Although it was just a small channel for the arm to go into it changed the droop at the tire close to 1/2 inch. The left rear did not have any clearance problems with the longer shock, but I also needed to dremel out the chassis on the right rear. Both at the front and rear of the right rear lower control arm. Once again this was only a channel for the lower arm to lay in. This gave the rear more droop. (I consider the droop being when you lift the car off the ground the tires will stay in contact longer with the ground, thus on a bumpy track it keeps the tires planted to give you more control) Just to give you an idea how much longer the shocks are. If you took the stock shocks and removed the bobbins it would be the ideal length and you wouldn't have to do anything to your shock tower.

[kipp]

last week i raced at a loose bumpy track. everybody there runs rubber pin spikes. one of the regulars there has been having trouble getting his new custom works car hooked up. he kept bottoming out the car. in a hurry, we put a new set of associated b3 shocks on the back with green buggy springs. on the front tc3 shocks we put longer ball links on the shock shafts and silver buggy front springs to get more ride height. he ended up winning the a-main. he was happier then a slop eating hog!! this is a electric intimidator im talking about but i think the basic idea applies for nitro as well. also, on the electric cars, i think the rear motor set up works better on loose bumpy tracks. at least it does for me. loose tracks soft and high, packed clay tracks low and firm!!

[MauriceG]

loose tracks soft and high, packed clay tracks low and firm!!

Right on!!!