B4 0 degree rear toe

[Unjun]

Ok Im gonna post this and this does work well with nothing needed except a drill bit, a Dremel and a couple screws. You just simply drill out the holes where the button head screws go that hold the pin. Drill them the size of the pin and put a 4-40 1/4 cscrew in the old pin hole to hold the pin in the new hole and Dremel out a little of the mount for arm clearence and you have 0 degre rear toe in on a B4 without buying new rear hubs that wont give you 0 degree anyways.

These pics are of the B4 rear mount on my TMR electric sprint it uses the stock rear mount from a B4 ofcourse.

[wait a minute]

i would assume it would work for the t4 truck too.

[Unjun]

Yeah I see no reason why it would'nt.

[DrOlds]

Brilliant!

[wait a minute]

i see that the t4/b4 uses just a tad smaller hinge pin. is there enough material to reem the holes out bigger to put in the larger diameter hinge pins?

[Unjun]

If you mean the b3 or t3 size hinge pins I dont think there would be enough material between the original hinge pin hole and the new hole if you went with the bigger pins. Why would you want to go with the bigger pins??? you would have to drill the arm out also.

[lawtonlosi]

Great idea, btw nice chatting with ya, keep up the good work.

[Unjun]

Thanks Billy I just seen that alot of people had asked this question and I was having the same issue they were and not wanting to pay 30.00 on hubs that wouldnt get me where I wanted to be. Figured this might help a few people out.

[twisted]

yea the stock hubs are 0 degree any how. all the toein is in the inner mount. i dont see why it would be so hard to make a new mount out of aluminum. good idea though!

oh yea post some pics of that car!

[Unjun]

Pics of the TMR B4 sprint Twisted.

[Quick Change]

Very good idea, I will try that on my T4.

[wait a minute]

If you mean the b3 or t3 size hinge pins I dont think there would be enough material between the original hinge pin hole and the new hole if you went with the bigger pins. Why would you want to go with the bigger pins??? you would have to drill the arm out also.

i was thinking about using the t4 arms on my t3 truck and in order to use the arms u would have to drill out the arms to make the pins fit. someting else i could do is sleeve the inner suspension mounts to be able to use the t4 hingepins.

[twisted]

i was thinking about using the t4 arms on my t3 truck and in order to use the arms u would have to drill out the arms to make the pins fit. someting else i could do is sleeve the inner suspension mounts to be able to use the t4 hingepins.

why dont you just by a t4 ?

[wait a minute]

why dont you just by a t4 ?

cause maybe i dont want a t4.

[jeff@vinyltrix]

cause maybe i dont want a t4.


useing t4 A arms are you making a t 3 1/2???

[wait a minute]

useing t4 A arms are you making a t 3 1/2???


naah.. a t3.5

[twisted]

mike, always wanted to ask you a question, why is crc listed as sponser on your signature ?

[wait a minute]

mike, always wanted to ask you a question, why is crc listed as sponser on your signature ?


i have a connection for motors through crc.

[bmharwell]

That worked perfectly, Thanks Unjun

[wait a minute]

ausome tip...cant wait to use it once i get a t4..lol

seeing its redrilled for 0 degrees toe-in could u go back to the stock setting if u needed to put toe back into it?

[Stetler17]

Bringing this old post back up to clarify a few questions.

When they say the stock toe is 3 degrees, is that per side or total?

From some of the other experiences on here it sounds like I should plan on atleast some toe. How much is enough? I understand driver preference and all, but what are your experiences.

I did the mods UNJUN posted. HOWEVER, it actually put a little toe out in it. If you measure across the holes front and rear, the mods are not a perfect setup.

My plan now is to put aftermarket hubs on to get rid of the toe out and hopefully put a slight amount of toe in back in it. Just not sure how much.

After I get something I like for toe I'll have a new front mount made and go back to the stock plate to get rid of the mods. Shouldn't be hard to make a new mount out of alum.

Thoughts?

[joe_d]

I used that toe trick a while back,worked fine for me.The 3 degree toe is total,1.5 per side if im not mistaken.3 per side would be a total of 6 and be way too much.Racers edge makes alum rear hubs for the B4 in 1/2 degree increments.More slippery track should equal more toe,someone correct me but you should run much less toe on high traction.It should depend on your racing surface.

[Stetler17]

Thanks Joe,

Using two straight edges off of new wheels without tires I had around 3/16" of toe out, measured at 1.5" out from the wheel lips. I put a set of Trinity .5 degree hubs on and now it is a perfect zero toe. I'll pick up a set of 1 degree hubs to try if I don't like this setup. I'll have to take the time and put the ole' math skills to work and figure out exactly what I had and where I'm at.

If I had measured the holes before I started it is possible I could have made it a perfect 0 toe to start with. I might try it again with another mount. Then I could try the .5 hubs on top of that.

Anyone else...Is the toe listed per side or total? Associated and Trinity numbers for that matter.

Thanks.

[DrOlds]

The toe-in numbers on off-road cars is per side-3 degrees per side,6 degrees total,and nitro stadium trucks usually have a little more than that.Excessive rear toe makes the car really hard to set up because it just doesn't want to roll thru the corner smoothly,esp. when you get back on the power coming out.Even reducing it by 1 degree per side makes a noticable difference.The general rule is less grip-more toe-in.I think 1 degree per side is plenty for most any oval application(electric-I don't know about nitro),but even on a high grip track a very small amount is good.Things tend to flex and move around a bit so if you are at zero toe at rest you can easily have some toe-out on the track.Always check it too-sometimes a whole set of "zero degree" parts will give you something else.

Some cars give you the option of being able to change the rear toe by the rear arm mounts(inboard toe) or the hubs (outboard toe) and the dynamics are slightly different.Inboard toe tends to give a little more forward bite,even if the total toe is the same.If you need to run the battery all the way back to get forward bite,use inboard toe and take some back out at the hub.If you run the battery forward to get steering,use zero pivot supports and put a little in at the hub.

[Stetler17]

Thanks for the explanation Dr.,


It seems to me that 3 degrees per side has to be scrubbing a lot of speed and 0 degrees will probably make it harder to control on the throttle. I'll find out in a few days. I really expect the freeness of the car to be noticable, if I can just control the traction.