XTM, X-terminator, circle track setup?

[Allan Webster]

Thanks for the suggestions and info so far on bodies and tires. Aparently the local hobby shop didn't want to sell my girlfriend foams for me since it was going to be my first time doing dirt oval.

After my crappy offroad weekend with the mammoth I figured I'd get the XT in running mode early. Missed practice time because I'm guessing some idiots cutoff a truck (hauling precious gasoline here in CA) and created a pile-up.

Any suggestions of a typical setup for a buggy? I was told to use some stiff and x-stiff springs. Seems like the roll out of the foam tires is about 7% less than a rubber wheel. I ordered some new clutch bells. What about diff oil/grease? Typical setup 7/10/3?

Thanks
al

[John Binz]

This is what I ran in my Mugen MBX5 on oval so it won't exactly the same but will be close. 120,000 in front 10,000 in center, 1,000 in rear. I used the stock springs. #-1 front block and #2 block on the rear. The number on the blocks probally won't be the same though.

[Allan Webster]

I've never taken a diff completely apart, so as of now, I have stock grease throughout. Which is equiv. to 1k-2k in the front/center/rear diffs. I've only taken the diff apart, saw some gears, some grease, said phuyyee. Didn't even know you could change the weights to change the characteristics.

So, is 120000 an oil or a grease? Seems some other stuff I've been looking at talks about oils and greases. The other thing I've picked up is between manufacturer, Mugen, OFNA, etc have different thicknesses for the same weight. So, is it more a factor or ratios? Also, how full or how much 'stuff' goes in? As much as you can cram in there? The book doesn't say anything about it.

Does the 120k or high number basically lock the front end so most of the power goes there? The center gets a fairly high number so that it gets power to both front/rear without sitting and spinning? The rear gets very low number so they just work and don't spin excessively?

I'm completely new to messing with 4WD stuff. I have a mammoth as well, though you can't adjust the center since there is no diff.

Also, on the foams. For hardpack track, what sort of issues am I going to see. Is it going to actually hook up and go as long as I stay out of the top (marbles). I'm told when they hold some national races they apply some sort of soda/sticky stuff to the dirt and the cars actually go faster than on pavement due to the amount of traction, tears tires up.

Is there a place to get foam donuts so I can do my own replacements rather than buying pre-mounted tires? I've done it before on a 1/12th scale when I was 13 (19 years ago). I've searched and haven't found anything yet. Seems my search words haven't worked on anything yet, until people here have guided me directly to a manufacturer, etc.

Thanks Again!
al

[John Binz]

The 120,000 is a oil (very thick) The higher the number the thicker it gets. If you still have the stock grease in the you need to take it all aprts and clean everything with brake cleaner and a toothbrush to get all the grese out of the teeth in the gears. After you have finished cleaning one of the diffs and start filling the diffs with Diff oil you need to stop around where the 2 sets of gears cross each other. I use Ofna diff oil becuase it is availabile at my locally Hobby Shop. On a hard paked track you need to use Ofna Green dot foam tires, they are premounted but the wheels are not good at all. I have not place to buy donuts that size to mount up. Before each time you go on the track you need to put TQ MOD which is a Traction Compound on your tires. If softens them up and helps in getting traction. You can either wipe the excessive traction compound off the tires before you run or let the track wipe the excessive or for you. If you don't wipe them off the first couple of laps will be a little loose.

[rm-rf]

XTM X-term diff oils

10,000 center
3000 rear
5000 front

I owned one and the above is what worked best for me